Day 12 Baxter Springs, KS to Chelsea, OK 63.5 miles

Chelsea Motor Inn by day...

and by night

Progress was slower today, have been cycling into a 45mph headwind for most of the journey. Oklahoma is very beautiful but also feels more desolate than Missouri or Illinois. Most of the towns I have passed through are very old and run down, a lot of boarded up shops and restaurants. There's also a lot of churches and roadside banners with religious messages, wrath of God stuff. There's something very sinister about cycling 20 miles on an empty road, no buildings or signs of civilization, then coming across a lone placard with a bible quote on it. The lady in the gas station asked me "did I know that Christ was my lord and saviour?" No, but please don't put a hex on me, I'm quite keen on seeing the Pacific in this lifetime. It's all very scary but also kind of exhilarating.

God's country, OK

Derelict hotel, Afton, OK


Tractor Rally, Brighton race course, 1983

The going has been really slow today; cycling into a 45mph headwind. Staying in a nice little motel in Chelsea tonight owned by a guy called Frank. He has a pet buffalo called Bessie. Got lucky as this is only motel for a 40 mile stretch along 66. Frank told me that Robert Plant ate in the diner down the road a couple of weeks back so I'm in good company. I'd just like to add that I'm only 24 hours from Tulsa. Thank you.

Classic 4 lane Route 66 heading towards Chelsea, OK.
There's something very 1950s about this section of the road.

Chelsea, OK

Frank & Bessie


Garden Ornament, Chelsea, OK